Roger Waters - Live at the Berlin Wall 1990

The following excerpt is taken from my journal while backpacking in Europe in the summer of 1990. Please keep in mind that I was an excitable 22 year old writer back then full of bright-eyed enthusiasm - and exclamation marks. :)

Thursday, July 19th, 1990

Right now I'm on a Versailles, France train bound for Berlin - we just left the Palace of Versailles. It was an immaculate wonder to behold - gardens that go beyond words. Our mission to Berlin requires a pit stop in Amsterdam. Wex, Rip (my travel buddies) and I bought sleeping bags and plan to camp out at the Berlin Wall for 2 days so we can a) score tickets or b) get a great spot if we can't get tickets. From what I keep hearing, this is going to be the largest concert ever produced - even bigger than Woodstock. And this is a historical day - the final piece of the Berlin Wall will come crashing down after the show. Expected attendance: 500,000!!!

Look at the sheer magnitude of that crowd in front of that gargantuan stage:


I've set myself on autodrive to get to this show since I found out about it 2 weeks ago - while laying on a raft in the Aegean Sea in Ios, Greece. How did I find out? A topless 21 year-old asked me if I was going to see Roger Waters perform the Wall at the Berlin Wall. WHAT??? The sheer enormity of that question dropped me clean off my raft - I was completely dumbstruck at what she just asked me. Ever since that moment, I've never been more determined to see one event in my life. This isn't only a concert - this is a day that will go down in history - the Fall of the Wall. This is by far the pinnacle event of my European summer - and it just so happens that it's the finale of the trip - nothing could possibly describe my thoughts at this point. On one hand, I've just been through the greatest 7 weeks of my life and on the other hand, I'm going to be at the greatest musical event in history - and to see Roger Waters perform The WALL in it's entirety!!!

When Rip, Wex & I arrived in Amsterdam, we got hooked up in a private home with absolutely the coolest chick. Her name is Camille and she is a 28 year old from NY that has been living in Holland for 7 years. She picked us up at the train station and we went out at 1am till about 4am and an all night party session till the sun came up! I'm telling you - Amsterdam is the coolest city - so laid back an full of hilarious "shady" characters!

The next day we had a gigantic breakfast that Camille fixed us and we partied all day in every coffeehouse we wandered into. Especially cool places: Easy Times Cafe - they played all reggae, tons of Black Uhuru. Staying with Camille was such a pleasure - she had an apartment right on the canal on the west side so we were able to see the sunset. Also, after 7 weeks on the road, I was yearning for the comforts and simple pleasures of home.

Later that evening it was time to catch our train for Berlin. The train station in Amsterdam was a mob scene! There was a 6 hour wait for information - so basically we are winging this part of the trip by just hopping on trains without a reservation. I'm on a guided mission from the big music man in the sky to get to Berlin for this show - nonstop baby, nonstop!

When we arrived in Berlin - we found some cool guys in the Central Berlin square who are staying with their Grandma so they asked us if we needed a place to sleep - what luck!!! Not even the most expensive hotels had rooms!! People were sleeping in the streets everywhere - just like Pamplona, Spain for the Running of the Bulls at the beginning of the trip. So many people flooded Berlin for the event, there was no hotel available to sleep - especially for wayward backpackers.




Friday July 20th, 1990
Well my quest is 1 step from realization! We HAVE TICKETS!!! We woke up at 7am and raced to the ticket office and we got front entrance seats!!! I'm telling you, I'm on autodrive, baby - I am sooo pumped!

[later that night] Right now, me and the boys are camped out in a soft grassy campground across from the stage in the Potzdamer Platz (the area where the show will be held). We are able to hear the soundcheck - "Comfortably Numb" - OMG - the stage is ENORMOUS! Just before camping out, we hammered off pieces of the Berlin Wall - both East & West Berlin sides. East Berlin is desolate and gray, while the West is lively and full of bright lights. Berlin is definitely a happening city after dark.


Image highlights from the Wall Live in Berlin 1990


350,000 fans at that Potsdamer Platz - site of the concert performance of The Wall






Sunday, July 22nd, 1990 (post show)
THE WALL was more than anything I imagined!!! It was a production of such colossal size and magnitude that it was like watching a higher intelligence from another planet perform a spectacle no man has ever seen. It was definitely the most grandiose event ever stage in the history of mankind - and I felt so honored and so beyond lucky to be there. [Editor's note: as you can see, I was fumbling terribly for words to describe this - so go ahead - and laugh it's hilarious - read that 2nd sentence again - classic!]

After awaking at 8am from our sleeping bags, I felt like I was living off the land - I hadn't showered in days, I've been sleeping on the ground and I lost my deodorant! It was Woodstock in Berlin! Anyway it all added to the greatest feeling of "being there" for that incredible event! All of the money from the ticket sales went to the Memorial Fund for Disaster Relief - those who need aid and supplies from hurricanes, earthquakes, floods, etc. Roger Water's performance of The Wall was a cry for the tearing down of communication barriers around the world. Plus the WALL itself is an undeniable Masterpiece! I've never been so affected by one man's music - and I think all 350,000 people at this show feel the same way. You could see the passion and excitement in people's eyes during the show - the energy was so great! The word was that there were about 350,000 people at the show. Staggering!

All points in the my life course pointed to Berlin and July 21st for me. It was destiny that I attended this show. Everything fell into place - all the way from start of my quest - back in Ios, Greece. Plus it was a weekend in Berlin I could never forget. I was so driven to see this show, my travel buds called me Obi Wan Kanobi - I used the force to guide my two jedi knights to the Berlin Wall to see the show together.

I had the experience of a lifetime, the show was unbelievable - beyond words - but its time for me to go home now. The Wall was the ultimate climax to a trip that has been a climax almost every day.



Roger Waters performance of The Wall in Berlin in 1990 was held on vacant terrain between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate (a location which was part of the former "no-man's land" of the Berlin Wall), this concert was even bigger than the Pink Floyd era ones, as Waters built a 550-foot long and 82-foot high wall, which was broken down in the same show. The show had a sell-out crowd of over 250,000 people, and right before the performance started the gates were opened which enabled another 100,000 people to watch. For more info about this incredible event, see the Wikipedia entry here.

I decided to add an additional photograph to complete my journal entry on Berlin. This was taken by master HDR photography, Klaus Herrmann. I thought it was a fitting final photograph to close the chapter on the Berlin Wall and the divide between East and West Germany.

From Klaus, this is the story of this photo:
The Brandenburg Gate is one of the most famous and symbolic places in Berlin and probably in all of Europe. The Berlin wall was right in front of the gate, leaving it as a sign of imprisonment on the eastern side. He took this shot from Pariser Platz on the east side (former German Democratic Republic). When the Berlin wall was built, this place became the “death zone” where nobody could go. After the reunification in 1990, it became the center of the city again, this time being perceived as a symbol for peace and reunification.

HDR photograph by Klaus Herrmann

Barcelona, Salvidor Dali Theater, The Palace of Versailles

Monday, July 16, 1990

After the Running of the Bulls, I was on a mission to get to Berlin for the Roger Water's performance of the The Wall. However, Danny did not want to visit Germany and we split off. He was my main runnin' pardner going the distance with me for the longest stretch of the trip. I wish him well as he wraps up his European journey - what an experience we had! I was psyched to re-connect again with Alan and Marc for a small stretch north into Barcelona, Bordeaux and the Palace of Versailles! It's also at this point that I met two traveling buddies from the south at University of Georgia who were traveling to Amsterdam, Rip and Wex. They didn't know it yet, but they would be on a whirlwind tour straight to the front of the stage of Roger Waters.


HDR photo by Paul C Reus

Marc, Al, Rip, Wex and I arrived in Barcelona, got off the train and were dumbstruck at the size of the train station. It was a massive city within a city. Too bad Spain couldn't get their act together and give us basic information from one place - instead they sent us all over station and we ended up there for 2 hours simply trying to get train information for connecting trains north. After checking into our hotel, we went for dinner along La Rambla, the grand central walkway with beautiful tall lighted trees, sidewalk cafes and lots of beautiful people strolling by. It reminded me of a smaller but equally enjoyable Champs de Elyses in Paris. Las Rambla eventually led us to the Magic Fountains which were stunning in their grandeur! Even though we were in Barcelona, we had been craving Americn food so badly by this time in the trip and we had never been so excited to eat McDonalds.


Now, however is the time to tell you about the most intense part of the entire trip - The Dalí Theatre and Museum. OMG, I was blown away. There is no way I could completely describe what I was feeling as I walked though the theater museum. What Dali created with this old-world museum was beyond the imagination. If I had one day on earth left to live, I would fly to Figueras, Spain and spend that day inside the Dali Museum. He created everything - sculpture, needlepoint, paintings, collages, lithographs, sketches, architecture, furniture, multi-media and whatever else he could turn into art. Dali maintained a close relationship with Sigmund Freud and many of his works were expressions of his sub-conscious and all his works are fantasy dreamscape images. In one room Dali painted his own fantastic version of Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel ceiling. The museum was a 17th century Spanish theater that Dali transferred into his own magnificent 4 story castle of art. The incredible detail of his paintings could not possibly be recreated in prints - when you look up close, you are able to see minutia of detail and layers of paint so subtle and small that go completely unseen in prints or in a book.

Remember how I said Van Gough was the greatest painter ever - well that was before I had been blown to smithereens seeing Dali's works live in person... in this marvelous theater. There was a painting that Dali made which sort of mocked Van Gough's sharp brush stroke style - and he did it with such ease that it was almost a joke. There was nothing he couldn't or didn't do - he was the most prolific artist and the ultimate artist in every sense of the word. I've never been so moved by art in my entire life. I spent so much time at each painting because there was so much to be read from just one viewing - so much depth and mystery. We spent close to 5 hours inside the Theater Museum and could have stayed even longer. If there was only one recommendation I would give to another human being for their bucket list - it would be to visit this museum.


View from inside the Dali Theater

photo by Cem Usakligil


We said goodbye to Marc and Alan and now I've broken off from all my original boys and now traveling with Rip and Wex. Alan was my inspiration for this entire trip and was the one who really designed the blueprint for the entire trip. Wish he and Mark (and Danny) would have made the journey to see Roger Waters.

Tuesday, July 17, 1990

Even though I love traveling and everywhere I go is something new, I'm beginning to get home sick for America. I'm dying for ketchup (crazy that they don't have ketchup packets here), I really want ice with my coke (ice is a foreign luxury here), and a sandwhich with substance (shrimp po-boy anyone?), my mom's home cooking, and all-you-can-eat restaurants.

However, when we arrived in Bordeaux for the Palace of Versailles, the thoughts of McDonalds quickly disappeared in favor of the finest wines in the world. We toured the magnificent Palace and were absolutely awestruck with it's over-the-top detail, magnificent halls, and of course, the most stunning gardens the world has ever seen. It was hard to put into words the beauty of this place. It's also impossible to fathom the staggering wealth. It was the former home of King Louie the XIV, the wealthiest king who ever lived. His palace was so vast and impeccably adorned, I thought I had visited heaven on earth.
photo by John Rogers

I've never seen anything so incredible. He had thousands of servants, whose only position in life was to take care of a section of one of the multitude of gardens. The colors were brilliant and the landscaping and rchitecture exceeded anything ever before seen. The King had balls and operas and symphonies play in many areas of the gardens. All along the pathways were adorned by mini-ponds, fountains and marble sculptures.


The palace was built in a Forrest so the entire feeling of the palace is lush and verdant - as far as the eye can see.

Running of the Bulls in Spain

Wed July 11, 1990

Danny and I took a slight detour from Barcelona. We had to stop in Nice in order to switch trains, and we decided to catch a night train out of Nice to connect directly to Pamplona, Spain for the Running of the Bulls! So while in Nice, we used the afternoon to catch up on a few things. I needed to go to Council travel to change my flight ticket from NY to Miami so I could hang with Greg for a few days. Then we saw the Modern Art museum that we missed the first time in Nice. We finally hit the beach at 3pm and stayed till the sun went down. I must say, stopping in Nice was a wise decision. I forgot how beautiful the South of France really is. It's just like Beverly Hills on the beach! If I could I would travel along every inch of coastline on every continent - I truly love the ocean! It was a wonderful beach afternoon layover before our night train to Pamplona.

Friday July 13th, 1990

Well right now I am recovering from the craziest festival this side of Mardi Gras. Before I begin to go off on what happened during the last 24 ours, I have to tell you about how backwards and old-world Spain is. I could not get to a U.S. phone operator from any payphone and the operators at Hotls shut down at 9pm - never mind any of them that try to help - so all communication with the US is cut-off! I tried so hard all day long to get through to my mom for her birthday and I'm really upset that I could not speak to her. This place is absolute mayhem!

There are people everywhere passed out stone cold in and on the streets - everywhere! The festival of San Fermín in the city of Pamplona (Navarre, Spain), is a deeply rooted celebration held annually in July. It has become probably the most internationally renowned fiesta in Spain. Over 1,000,000 people come to watch this festival - and there is so much overflow from available hotel rooms that people literally sleep in the streets. We woke up at 6:30am from a park where we slept last night. We found a tiny patch of grass near a tree and huddled together to sleep. I used my sneakers as a pillow. My friend was not so lucky and his sneakers were stolen during the night.



Every Spaniard wore the same exact thing - all white with a red scarf. Everybody was completely drunk - even the 12 year olds! I saw the funniest thing ever - two 14 yr olds lying face down on the pavement and all of a sudden, one gets up, staggering of course, and vomits all over his buddies back. Poor guy. Millions of people flood the streets - just like Mardi Gras and they sing and dance traditional Spanis songs and chant in drunken revelry. There is something to be said about a town where you can watch an 80 yr old woman dance in a festive trance at 4am! It's hard to believe the festival of San Fermin lasts 24 hours a day all week long! Nobody sleeps, and if they do, it's because they drank till they dropped. We wandered into one of the many squares and then a parade marched right into us. Most of them beat drums and and the intensity and volume could shatter windows - and this was at 3am! Nobody could possibly sleep - who wants to? Every has their own private bottle of Spanish wine, it's celebratory madness!



The purpose of this event was in origin to transport the bulls from the off-site corrals where they had spent the night, to the bullring where they would be killed in the evening. Youngsters would jump among them to show off their bravado. Spanish lore says the true origin began in North-eastern Spain during the early 14th century. While transporting cattle in order to sell at the market, men would attempt to speed the process by hurrying their cattle using tactics of fear and excitement. After years of this practice, the transportation and hurrying began to turn into a competition, as young adults would attempt to race in front of the bulls and make it safely to their pens without being overtaken. When the popularity of this practice increased and was noticed more and more by the expanding population of Spanish cities, a tradition was created and stands to this day.


photo by AP



Well, now I must tell you about the scorching hell it was to get here. We planned to take a 24 hour train from Venice, bu tthe train systems in Spain are so unreliable, inefficient and slow that it took us 2 days of slow, stop & go, swelteringly hot, smelly, rickety, uncomfortable, sauna trains. Luckily we met some Tulane friends and downed a few bottles of Spanish wine half-way to Pamplona. Now when I think of Spanish towns, I imagine them lost in time and trapped in the 17th century. They have almost no modern technology or conveniences and boy was it hot here. But when the we finally got to Pamplona we were thrilled beyond belief. Our entire trip was planned around the "Running of the Bulls." All the travel across Europe was designed so that we could run with the bulls around this date - and wow, was it worth it!


photo by AP


When we woke up from the park after another crazy night of celebration, we walked to the main street where the bulls ran and then into the Arena for a real Matador Bull fight! The main run was only 1/4 of a mile down a very narrow street closed off to outside "jumpers". The length of the run is 826 metres (903 yards). It goes through four streets of the old part of the city (Santo Domingo, Town Hall Square, Mercaderes and Estafeta) and a section called Telefónica before entering into the bullring. Spaniards run in front of the bulls while they charge from behind, bucking Spaniards clear into the air. They do this show off their bravado. It's completely insane. Some would get trampled, some would get gored. The narrow street funnels into the main Bullfighting stadium

photo by AP



photo by AP


The whole ceremony is very brief, which is not what I expected, but the tradition is fasinating. But the actual Running of the Bulls ceremony was dwarfed by what I witnessed later that afternoon. I witnessed the sickest sport in the world - "The BULLFIGHT"!!! It was a grand ceremony, and the last day of the festival and the President of Spain and the Spanish Aristocracy was watching from the royal box. All the matadors were decked out in their finest costumes.


photo by Rafa Rivas, Getty Images

A bull is then released into the arena. The sheer size of the bull is shocking to see. The horns were long and sharp. The actual game is so cruel and depressing and moved me considerably. I could not believe what I was witnessing. The matadors taunt the bull, while knights on horseback (wearing a steel protective shield), stab a massive jousting dagger straight down into the shoulder blades of the bull. This initial plunge into the bull tears the muscle and slows the bull down enough so the grand matador can taunt it. His taunting is the is the focus of the show/exhibition. Finally when the matador has completely humiliated the bull and it's strength is completely exhausted, the matador raises the killing sword and drives the sword directly into the animals brain. Then two more matadors come running out to make sure the bull is dead by driving two additional daggers though his brain. The bull then kicks straight out and becomes completely stiff. About 2 gallons of blood begins to shoot out of the bulls mouth. Three great horses come to drag the bull out the arena while the matador receives roses and wild applause from the crowd. There are 6 bullfights in all, and all die the same humiliating and torturous death. It's so shocking, however while inside the coliseum, you are taken over by the grand sense of the awe of the sport.

photo by AP Photo/Victor R. Caivano



Here is a photo I captured during the part of the ceremony when they drag the dead bull away and clean the blood.




To see an excllent photographic play by play of the Festival Di San Fermin, see this amazing Boston Globe review.

Glorious Venice

Tuesday July 10, 1990

Venice is Awesome!!! It is so beautiful, so romantic, so charming, so everything. It was nothing like I imagined. As soon as you walk out of the train station - you hit water. The entire city is built on canals and waterways. There is not one car in the entire city. Water taxis take you where you want to go. Romantic Gondolas lazily stroll across the water with lovers and newlyweds.

HDR photo by Dominic Kamp

On the train towards Venice, Danny and I met a gorgeous girl. She was from, where else? LA, and was traveling alone (with like 4 bags of luggage)! She was back-packing the hard way, I have no idea how she got from place to place, but she later told me she's been flying all over Europe, charging hotels and basically paying for high-end service along the way (nice way to travel!) Anyway we hooked up and decided to tour Venice together. It was nice to have a female to share the romantic experiences here in Venice. We went to a Dali museum here, drank more wine at dinner, strolled through the Piazza San Marco... very nice.

HDR photo by Trey Ratcliff, Stuck In Customs

The next day we walked around the city and took more water taxis, the more romantic way to get around town. We went to the 100th anniversary of Man Ray, a modern artists who created many different styles of art, sculpture, painting and photography. Then we went to Walker Adams, an amazing black and white photographer who had great shots of Selma, Alabama, New Orleans, Coney Island Mississippi - all capturing great realism of the 1930's.


Photo by MorBCN

The architecture in Venice, especially the Basilica di San Marco was fantastic. Classic Renaissance mixed with Byzantine formed the most beautiful buildings - and again, everything is on the water, so amazing. Venice really exceeded my expectations - wow - what a surprise. It felt like a moment in time that had a dream-like quality to it. But now, it's off to Spain for the Running of the Bulls!

Our Long Strange Trip to the Greek Islands

Saturday June 30, 1990

Well, today is the day of the "Concert of the Decade" in London at the Knebworth House. Pink Floyd, Tears for Fears, Eric Clapton, Dire Straits, Elton John, Paul McCartney, Ray Cooper, Robert Plant (with guest Jimmy Page), Status Quo and Phil Collins with Genesis were all set to appear. Unfortunately, there was absolutely no way I could make it. However, I just happen to be on deck of a cruise ship heading toward Athens, Greece (a fine consolation). I'll see the concert on MTV when I get home.


We spent another day and night in Capri - the most fantastic island I've seen yet. Danny and I went to the Grottos Assure (the Blue Grotto) - one of the wonders of the Mediterranean world. The Grotto was a cave with a tiny opening at the waterline where the sun shines through the water/entrance and bounces off the white sand inside the cave. The reflected light illuminates the cave to a majestic royal blue. The water was so clean, that you could see to the bottom of the entire cave.

At the Grotto, we met 4 of the coolest, funniest comedians from New York. These guys went to Albany and we decided to travel to Greece together. Let me tell you that since Danny and I met these guys, we haven't stopped laughing for a minute! It's like traveling with 4 Billy Crystals - they're a riot.

Ok, the boat to Athens is killin' me. From Capri to the Greek Islands takes 2 full days (48 hours of non-stop travel). What a pain! I didn't anticipate this part of the trip. We had to take a mini-bus down to the port, then a hydrofoil bak to Naples, then a cap to the train station, then a 2 trains to the port in Brindisi (the tip of Italy), then we had to take a cruise (with no seats, I slept on the deck in 45 degree freezing weather with no blankets), then after the cruise ship, we had to take a train to Athens and then a plane to Mykinos Island and then another boat to Santorini Island. Ok, let me recap for you:

Mini-bus, boat, taxi, train, train, boat, train, plane, boat.

It hasn't been all that bad because of our new friends Steve, Jay, Keith and Mike from Albany, but all that travel gives you alot of time to just think. The sunshine in Capri gave me a nice suntan base, but once in the Greek Islands I should be looking fiercely dark. I'm excited to explore the islands and the black sand and ancient ruins, and lots of celebrating.





One of the brief highlights on our overnight Ferry to the Islands was a full RED moon rising over the horizon.



Sunday July 2, 1990

Jim Beam Cola tv commerical- so many commercials in Europe are all alcohol ads! Imagine walking into a 7-11 in America and picking up a six-pack of Jim Beam and Coke as if it were a half-gallon of milk! All the ads in Europe are hilarious. Goofy ads, but I guess they work. I could simply sit in front of the TV and watch these crazy commercials for an hour - pure entertainment. If your wondering why I've been writing about television ads, it's because we've been watching the World Cup every night - everything in Europe revolves around the games.

Anyway, after the hellish 20 hour boat ride, we arrived in Athens and were swarmed by Athenian Hotel shysters. Each person tried to get us to stay at "their " hotel and the competition was hilariously fierce. This drove the price down. Me and the boys stayed in a place for $4! When we finally laid down to sleep in the sweltering heat, without any working air conditioning, it must have been 110 degrees. We laughed if all off - as we all shared the room! The next morning we woke to see the Acropolis, but by the time we got to see it (or rather, by the time we found it), it closed! So me and Steve snuck over the gate to try to climb to the Parhenon. However, not more than 20 feet into the journey, we were attacked by a pack of vicious German sheppards that probably haven't eaten for days! Next thing I knew, I was flying through the air - I had never jumped so high and fast in my entire life. We barely escaped with our lives and decided maybe we should come back when the open. It was an incredible sight fro the bottom, though. Just think the Acropolis was the Manhattan of 200 BC. I was cool to imagine the ruins covered with fabulous marble and active with Greek philosophers - Socrates, Plato and so many others.


Monday July 3, 1990

That afternoon, we took another hilarious boat ride (10 hours this time). The reason I keep using the word hilarious is because these guys with Danny and I are really killin' me with their wacky comedic ways. I've never had so much fun with friends I barely know - but at the same time I felt like I've known them my whole life. Anyone who can keep me in stitches all day and all night is definitely ok in my book! We arrived in Santorini in the heat of the mid-morning and were shystered by a Greek selling shlock. He said he had a great hotel by the beach - and took us to the middle of the dessert. We refused to pay him and pointed to the beach 5 miles away! He dropped us in the middle of nowhere and we had to wonder the deserted part of the island in 110 degree heat with our packs. Oy - this was not the Greek Island Paradise I had been dreaming of!

We wondered aimlessly through the heat with our packs until, get this, an 11 year kid pulls up in a mini-van! I don't think I've seen anything so funny. He goes, "I've got room 4 you, by beach, no problem." He shystered us too - and we had to get his father to drive us to Kamari Beach on the other side of the island. FINALLY, we were where we wanted to be. We got an amazing place on the waterfront for $8.

We rented mopeds and had absolute the best days I've ever had in my life! We rode all over the island. It's impossible to describe the raw beauty of this island. There is little or no vegetation, but the mountains and landscape are formed by molten lava from a volcano (that is still active and just recently erupted only 30 years ago).




From the top of the mountain it looks like the Grand Canyon but within the deep blue sea. White stone homes rise up onto the crest of the island tops capping their domed churches in the most rich royal blue.



HDR photo of the Santorini Cathedral by Klaus Herrmann



We then rode to the other side of the island to the beach with watersports and we hopped on an inflated banana boat. Laughing like kids and horsing around - we were bucking the raft like a bronco, and it only took about 500 feet offshore until we wiped out. When we did, I noticed the water was the most intense royal blue color - raw beauty!

After a few hours on the beach, we rode our mopeds to the top end of the island to watch the sunset. Oia was the name of the village where many people go to see one of the miracles of nature. Watching the sun set in Oia was impossible to describe in words. Let's just say there was absolutely no where else on the planet that I'd rather be.

Incredible sunset photo of Oia Village in Santorini by Nikola Totuhov

Stunning after-dark photo of Santorini by Xandré Verkes

Thursday July 5, 1990

Well, everything I heard about Ios, Greece is absolutely true! This place is sheer madness! The 4th of July was insane. The beach was packed with kids of all nations, but most were celebrating the 4th, American style. There was one group of nuts called beer hunters. They were seven guys who finish 300 beers every Wednesday! These guys were roaming the beach in search of babes and more booze (dressed with watermelons on their heads, beer cans for sunglasses and war paint all over their body. Dozens of people were actually passed out flat on their faces all over teh beach - in the middle of the day. The Europeans drink so much more than Americans - but they get so drunk, they can't even stand. They should visit New Orleans and learn how to drink all day and all night and pace yourself the right way.

The nightime, oh the night...what can I say about the night vibe?! It was even crazier! The West Germany / England World Cup match was on tv and these nations got stupid drunk! They got wild and crazy and loud and just plain out of control. We went home around 3am, but on the way, we dropped into a dance club in the old city that played the sickest thumping house music - and we didn't leave till 5am. Did I say the Europeans drink all day and all night? They do, and people were passed out on the streets left and right - like litter. Ios is like spring break all year long.

What did I eat? Shawarmas! Shawarmas all day and all night. With french fries. Lord, what a treat - they were so insanely delicious, that I coudn't break away from eating anything else. Funny story...while the drunk Europeans staggered into the water to cool off from their face-planting in the sand, they would lose all their money out of their pockets. I happened to have my snorkel and mask while in Ios, and I would go into the water every 2 hours and collect "Shawarma money!" I would treat all the guys to lunch and dinner. Seriously, money was flowing out of their pockets and they had no idea.

I've been noticing mixed feelings towards Americans. There's some hostility where kids would sing "Go Away USA" and "Go Home Yankees, Go Home." This would usually come out after a few drinks. Some nations are intrigued with us, however. The Northern countries like Sweden and Denmark are so nice and really want to talk to you. They want to know all about our culture and our music - especially heavy metal! Europeans love hard rock (it goes with their hard drinking). Music really is the universal language - it connects, and has no boundaries.

Sunday July 8th

Well, right now, I'm putting my hands in a Greek pilot of a 7 person propeller engine plane, Olympic Airways to Rome. Why? Because there is no way I was going to take those hellish 48 hours of travel back to Italy. We are saving 2 days of travel in just 2 hours. At the airport, Danny and I said goodbye to our Albany boys, Keith, Mike, Steve and Jay. We've been traveling almost 2 weeks together and feel like we have been best friends. They were definitely an awesome addition to the journey. Will try to catch up with them down the road when I'm back in New York.

The past 4 days and nights have been so amazing. Nothing but sun, fun, snorkeling, shawarma, laughs, ladies, liquor and the dancing limelight, what a routine! I've actually become a native color. You've never seen me this tan. I never burned, but instead slowly simmered to a charcoal brown - something about the sun in this region just did not burn. I absolutely loved the Greek Islands - it was everything and more that I could have expected. I was a little sad to leave - I could have easily stayed in Ios for a month. We are headed to Venice, Italy and then it's off to Spain for the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona. I'm excited for Spain. At this point in the trip, I think I'm going to blow off my trip to London and visit Berlin to see Roger Waters perform "The Wall" at the Berlin Wall. It's a once in a lifetime event and it's something I absolutely HAVE to see. I could always return to London in the future.

The Isle of Capri

Wed June 27, 1990

I've never been so excited to actually sit down and write about my day as I am right now. Try and picture this... about 6:30pm, the sun is about to set on the horizon of the Mediterenean, we have an unbelievably gorgeous hotel on top of one of the most beautiful islands off the coast of Italy, 2 hours south of Rome. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI!!! I'm now on the balcony overlooking of the most panoramic views of a coastline one could possibly imagine. All along the mountain coast is lined with violet flowers and verdant trees. Off to my right, is the quaint little seaport of Capri and off to my left and over the trees, I can see the mountainous coastline. of Naples. In the foreground, there are 200 foot tall grotto coves...WOW is all I can say! I'm telling you, the sights just get more and more beautiful the further south we go.

Soon after arriving at this island paradise, I was diving off small cliffs into crystal clear blue waters (yes, that's me).


I had no idea Capri was this beautiful, but what an incredible joy - especially coming from the old dusty dirt binge city of Rome. Actually, Rome wasn't that bad, but it wasn't that pleasant.

Here's a great perspective from photographer Enrico De Vita


Traveling to the Island of Capri from Rome was by far the best decision ever.

My sketch drawing of the sunset from our balcony

Rome & The Vatican

Monday June 25, 1990

Because of all the World Cup Soccer matches in Italy, Danny and I split off from Alan and Marc because they tried to get tickets for a big soccer match in Bologna, and we wanted to continue south towards Rome, Capri and the Greek Islands. It was a bummer splitting off, but we had amazing memories and by this point in the journey we felt confident to "leave the nest" so to speak. We were on our own, but Danny loves to talk and chat and get to know people which makes things super easy when asking for help and directions.

After Alan and Marc left for Bologna, Danny and I worked our way South towards Rome. The train to Rome from Florence was brief, but pleasant. The country side was pretty, many farms along the ride. When we arrived in Rome, it was nuts! We traveled during the summer of the 1990 World Cup Soccer matches and Rome was a hotbed of insane fans. There was a match in Rome when we arrived and people were scrambling in all directions, and we were being tossed to and fro with our giant backpacks. Yes, the strangest thing happened, a man from the tourist information office saw our confusion and went out of his way to call a hotel for us. When we asked him why, he simply said it was his job. He save us a so much time and trouble - especially because it was 6:30 and there was almost no way we would have found a place to sleep if we were looking on our own. On our way to the hotel, we can see that this city was ANCIENT. It was so dirty and decrepit. Prices for hotel rooms were outrageous because of the World Cup, but the tourist officer secured us a place for $25/night - one of the cheapest around. We ended up watching the soccer game and got a good night's sleep (well needed).

HDR photo by Klause Hermann

The next day, we went to the Vatican Cathedral where the Pope lives. It is also the final resting place the THE St. Peter, the very first Pope who died in 74 A.D. That's almost 2,000 years ago. Saint Peter's Basilica (image to left) is a Late Renaissance church located within the Vatican City. Saint Peter's Basilica has the largest interior of any Christian church in the world. It's regarded as one of the holiest Catholic sites. It has been described as "holding a unique position in the Christian world" and "the greatest of all churches of Christendom". Without a doubt, the Vatican is absolutely the MOST SPECTACULAR ARCHITECTURAL TRIUMPH in the world. It is sooooooooo HUGE!!! I can't even begin to describe what I saw, it was so staggering. The ceilings were about 200 feet high and every inch of the ceiling was designed in classic Renaissance style - gold everywhere. Small windows inside the towering domes allowed light to stream through, spreading the light in rays looking "heavenly" indeed.

Michelangelo, Raphael, Bernini and many of the great Renaissance artists contributed to the art by painting incredible rooms and sculptures that filled the marble-lined halls of the Vatican. The Sistine Chapel was magnificent, The ceiling, and especially The Last Judgment painted from 1535–1541, is widely believed to be Michelangelo's crowning achievement in painting. His technique was so fascinating. The entire Vatican has to be seen to be believed. The sheer magnitude of the space and artistic brilliance overwhelms you.


HDR photo by Klaus Herrmann


After almost 4 hours in the Vatican City, Danny and I caught a smelly, densely-packed, old and rickety bus to the Roman Colosseum. What a site! We were able to walk inside and see where the Romans threw their people to the lions. What a violent society!


HDR photo by Trey Ratcliff, Stuck In Customs

Then we saw the Piaza Benezia, a giant, white-marbled stairway leading to the great pillared Colosseum that had gigantic Roman sculptures on top. Then it was on to the Pantheon. It was a bit of a disappointment, dirty and unimpressive. Overall, Rome was not the ideal vacation destination, except for the ancient city and the Vatican, I'm not sure I'd really go back.

HDR photo by Trey Ratcliff, Stuck In Customs

Pisa and Florence, Italy

June 22, 1990


We took the night train to Florence, Italy which I was super excited about. However, it was the train from hell! Small uncomfortable seats that 4 of us had to scrunch into. But the worst was making a 3am connecting train in Pisa - what a pain!!! After shaking off the cobwebs and getting off the train, we wondered through the streets of Pisa with our backpacks to the leaning tower of Pisa. What a freakishly cool architectural wonder. The tower really leans A LOT! It looks like its going to topple at any minute. It was neat, but I was still in a daze.

As if the whole 3am connecting train business was not enough, we were attacked by BATS on the walk back to the train! Yes bats. It was something out of horror movie. They flew every which way and almost crashed into us many times. We had to run with our lead-weighted, heavy, dirty-clothed, uncomfortable, backpacks through the streets to dodge them. My back was killing me! It all added to the experience. Now I could tell my kids one day that I was chased by bats in Italy in the deep of the night. Boy could I elaborate on that one.

We finally arrived in Florence at 5:30am and we hiked though the city to our Hotel Columba. The lady was so nice to let us in at 6am and give us rooms (check-in is almost always much later). I've never wanted a room so bad in my entire life. Exhausted from the craziest night of travel, I collapsed in a heap. Starring at the ceiling before closing my eyes, I noticed the extremely tall ceilings, adorned with ornate trim. The room was large and clean...ahhh I love Italy.


3 hours later, woke up and toured Florence. Now THIS is a city! The weather was stupendous! Clear sky, 75 degrees and cool breeze! We saw the Academia museum where the original David lives. What a sight. It's hard to believe a statue can be so spectacular, bu this is an exception. Almost 20 feet tall, it cast an ominous prescience, but it was truly perfect. IT's supposedly the perfect creation of a human body. Studying Michaelangeo in school, it was said that he was one of the most talented and prolific sculpture, artist and architect of his time, and just one look at this sculpture you knew in an instant it was true.


We wondered to the Palazzo Pont Vecchio where a single bridge housed many Italian folks and plenty of the city's leather and jewelry. Shops, shops and shops! They were all amazing - nothing cheesy like the tourist shops in NYC.

It was here in this city that I saw a greater density of beautiful women than in any other city. Gorgeous dark hair, green eyes, cool dresses. I don't know what people were thinking when they said Paris was the fashion capitol - the Italians KNOW style! The women and men were very good-looking compared to other cities, especially Paris.


On our way back to the room, we went to the Doumo Cathedral - the 4th longest in the all the world. The exterior design was intricate and magnificent. The interior was open and airy and very large and tall. Stained glass throughout. Still, the most breath-taking cathedral was Notre Dame. Nothing can touch it, except the Vatican in Rome which I keep hearing so much about it, but we'll see.

HDR photo by Trey Ratcliff, Stuck In Customs



Then I saw the Baptistery De Giovanni - the ceiling was unbelievable.Every inch of the dome was layered in gold and ornately decorated with religious figures and situations. The art of religion was life and it was so interesting to see how it ruled the world and was documented at the time. It's also so inspiring to see these ancient structures still intact and so well-maintained. History man - I love it!

I then took a separate private tour of the leather market - all I wanted to do was buy, buy, buy! O.K., until tomorrow... oh wait a second, I forgot to tell you - I witnessed a purse snatching right before my eyes! A shady-looking character cruised by on a scooter and swiped this lady's purse right off her arm - but the strap broke and he took off unsuccessful. Now I'm going to be extra careful with my things - especially during the World Cup. It's madness here in Italy!


Photo by Gary Vidson

June 23, 1990
This morning we went to the Firenze Jewish Synagogue. It was claimed to be the most beautiful and magnificently decorated Synagogue in all of Europe. I was can certainly agree. It was really spectacular. Every inch of the Synagogue was painted by hand and the Moorish-inspired architecture was built by 3 famous Italian architects in 1882. It survived a flood and bombs by the Nazis and still looks well-maintained, thanks to donations from around the world. I was able to appreciate sitting down so much more than other Cathedrals. Feeling comfortable and at peace gazing up at the Torah surrounded by ancient oil lamps keeping the "Eternal Flame" burning.

We then rushed over to the Palazzo Pitti Palace which was anything but petty. It was the grandest Italian Renaissance museum I had seen yet. It was half the size of the Louvre, but it was twice as ornate. Every single room, wall, ceiling, painting and frame was incredibly detailed. The works were fascinating and the ceilings were painted like the heavens. Every room had a different color and was ridiculously overdecorated...wow. Once outside the Medici, I walked through a massive Boboli Gardens filled with Renaissance sculptures scattered throughout. The gardens had mazes similar to "The Shining". It was a wonder to walk through and very fulfilling experience. This museum was up there at the top for me and must have taken decades to create.

You really feel like your in an ancient city because the Cathedral bells "ring" all day long - very cool! The weather is really sublime, nothing but clear blue sky - and makes your impression of a city 10 times better.

This afternoon, we witnessed the most bizarre sport - barbaric football. It was a grand ceremony with elaborate costumes and horses and swords. I twas transported back tot he Medieval days! When the game began, every man attacked each other - it was brutal! From my perspective, it was just "kill the man with the ball. The back story here is that the game has history dating back hundreds of years and is the original version of ruby. By the end of the game, they were carrying men off the dirt field due to the beatings they received trying to score a goal. This was definitely a fascinating pit-stop in in Florence. We were lucky to be walking through the area of the city to catch it . It was a once in a lifetime spectacle. I love Florence!